We took the South Coast Highway in a westerly direction today, heading to the little hamlet of Walpole. Highways in Australia are two-lane roads, everywhere except in cities and immediate suburbs. Going from one place to another you are really in touch with the surroundings and you are able to stop on the side of the road, mostly anywhere on a dime, for whatever reason.
Today’s drive was quite pleasant. Cattle ranches on rolling hills, with amber fields swaying with the wind, interspersed with patches of trees and the occasional billabong (watering hole). Billabongs in these parts actually have water, unlike their cousins further north.
This region gets about three feet of water per year in the form of rain, and the rivers flow proudly to the sea.
Then, almost suddenly, you are transported into a drastically different environment; pastureland disappears and gives way to forest, that forest of orange/reddish/grey barked trees that exist only on this continent.
We had intended to visit William Bay National Park but, in the town of Denmark, we learned that it would be closed until June for maintenance. The park claims to have large varieties of wildflowers in any season.
Further up the road we had better luck, as the Walpole-Nornalup National Park was indeed open to the public. The park is home to the largest trees in Australia, second only, in size, to the redwoods of Central/Northern California. Let me tell you, it’s a majestic sight.
These giants are called Red Tingles and are part of the Eucalyptus family. They grow as tall as 200 feet and as wide as 60 feet in circumference, and they are only found in this park. We walked through this forest in amazement.
In 1995 the government of Western Australia began construction of a Tree Top Walk, a metal structure which slowly climbs to a height of 120 feet and winds its way through a good part of the woods. Not quite as tall as the tingles, still, the walk allows you to have a birds’ eye view of the forest and a better feel for the height of these enormous plants.
Approaching our destination, we rested for an hour or so at one of the many inlets that dot the highway. Eric took his daily hike; I, on the other hand felt I hiked enough around the tingle forest, so I took a brief stroll to the water’s edge where I came upon an elderly couple. The wife was fishing, while he was just resting sitting on a stone.
They were lovely people and we happily conversed about the area and life as Australian pensioners. They also provided good tips for places to visit tomorrow.
Walpole (pop. 320) is so small, it shouldn’t even qualify to be listed on a map, but it is, perhaps because it has a motel, and tonight we are sleeping there. I felt the need for it since I’ve been sleeping somewhat restlessly the last couple of nights. Hopefully, I’ll get the rest I need.
Small as the town is, there are a handful of restaurants. I must say that the food experience has been quite good. Rarely, if ever, have we had a bad meal. My calamari tonight was absolutely delicious and Eric had a mouth-watering steak sandwich. And everywhere you are able to order an espresso after the meal; my type of country.
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