What comes to mind when you think of Java? Coffee? Tropical scenery? Volcanoes? Beaches? You are right on all counts, but it's not the whole story. Fact: Java is the most populous island in the world. While quite large for an island, it is slightly bigger than one third of Italy, yet its shores are inhabited by as many people as those who live in all of Italy, Spain and France combined!!
This is one fact that I had not taken into consideration when planning our time here. Distances that on the map you imagine to take about 90 minutes to drive, end up taking more than 4 hours. This is because, while the island is verdant, mountainous and lush, its population resides in towns and villages crossed by the main roads. We would have never expected to be stuck in mind-boggling traffic in what we had imagined to be Eden on earth.
Possibly the congestion has been rendered much worse because, on this 4-day weekend - it's Chinese New Year - many locals are taking to the resort areas. Massachusetts friends will understand the type of jams we are encountering, if I simply say Cape Cod on the 4th of July weekend. Fine on the East Coast, but on Java? Yes sir, even worse, if you can imagine, because on the south side of the island, where we are currently, the major road connecting seemingly all towns, is but a single lane going each way, and I've already told you how many people live here.
After leaving Jakarta, our first destination was the relative small town of Ciwidey.
Ciwidey
Tea plantations around Ciwidey
We arrived well after dark, only to discover that the property we rented did not even remotely resemble what was claimed to have been booked. We were not happy in the least, so after the first night, we decided to pack it up and move on, although we fully took advantage of nearby interesting sites.
A young lady named Maria was living next door. She befriended us, since she spoke a fair amount of English, and we asked her if she would mind showing us around the area, which she was more than happy to do.
Together we visited, and crossed, a long suspension bridge, a thermal spring, a beautiful small lake, and the White Crater, a bubbling sulfuric lake in an ancient crater that is seismically active.
Tree fern
Hot springs
Suspension bridge
Peaceful lake
The White Crater
Our intention, after a couple of days here, was to drive to Yogyakarta, where we would stay another three. We had to rethink our plans. Driving through to Yogyakarta, with the driving conditions would have taken more than a day, so we had to redraw our plans and allow for two overnight stop-overs in places we had not planned to do so, with exotic names such as Tasikmalaya and Purwokerto, where we are now.
A massive minaret in Bandung
Mt. Slamet, second highest volcano on Java, near Purwokerto
View from room in Tasikmalaya
Java is indeed also what we had imagined. Outside of the congested roadsides, the environment is simply spectacular. Volcanoes are everywhere, this is after all the most seismic area in the entire world. Another issue that has pestered us is the rain. The saying "when it rains it pours" must have Javanese origins. We now know the meaning of the words "monsoon season". When the sky opens up, the downpours flood the city roads. It's simply crazy! I'm saying this because, while the countryside is amazingly gorgeous, it is seldom that you get to see it in its glory. Most volcanoes at this time of year hide behind heavy, ominous clouds, and when a terrific photo op finally becomes available, pulling off the heavily trafficked roads is a task not worth performing.
Tomorrow is the last day of the long weekend, and we should finally make it to Yogyakarta. We have a beautiful home awaiting our arrival and we plan to make the most of our stay there. We will let you know how we fared, of course. And now, it's time to watch the Sampdoria game.
Good night and thanks for your visit.
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