First some more basic facts about the state of Western Australia. It is the largest in the country and produces 40% of Australia's exports. It is 800,000 square kilometers larger than Alaska, our largest state, yet only 10% of Australia's population resides here, and 90% of its inhabitants livein the Perth/Fremantle area. I believe this might give you an idea of how sparsely populated this area is.
You can drive hundreds of miles between towns.
Yet, it is an area of unparalleled, mostly rugged beauty where, as you walk along many of its numerous paths, you can't help but be awe-struck. At the same you wonder how people can even survive living here, where in Summer, as now, temperatures can climb to 130 degrees F., droughts can last months, and veritable water sources are non-existent.
As we continue our drive north, we are beginning to experience some of the discomfort associated with these facts. Ironically, in the Southern Hemisphere, the further north you go, the hotter it gets, and today, in some of the most arid and sun-baked areas, we performed our hiking in 111 degree weather (44 degree Celsius). Luckily, along the coast, a beneficial, consistent wind made it seem more bearable, but such was not the case everywhere we went, and the discomfort was real, as were the insidious little flies that pestered us, apparently attracted to the mounds of sunscreen on our skin.
Now, before you go on thinking why the hell are we doing this, let me tell you that what we are seeing and experiencing, absolutely and without regrets, makes it totally worth it.
Large wheat fields, although wheat is not growing this season as the soil is sere, were the first notable difference from our journey thus far. At this time, they are being used for sheep grazing.
But this landscape did not last long, and soon nature took over in its true form, where low lying bushes, tolerant of the weather, took over. The flora is now different, reminiscent of that of our Southwestern states, yet unique to this part of the world, and seen nowhere else on earth.
On our way to our ultimate destination for the day, the town of Kalbarri, in the middle of nowhere, we saw a sign that indicated the site of Lynton's Convict Recruit Center. For those who may be unaware, when Australia, and particularly W. A., first became a British colony, it was thought of as such an inhospitable place, that large numbers of Britain's felons were sent here in exile. These felons were the first white inhabitants on this continent, and in this place they were being held, rehabilitated, and eventually recruited to be reinstated into the workforce. The recruiting center was unmanned. What remained of the buildings was left free for the public to wander about and we stopped to have a look. Of course we were the only people there. There were illustrations and documents that documented the history of the place, which we found quite interesting. This picture was taken from inside the dorm room, looking out one of its windows.
Have you ever seen a pink lake? Seriously, have you? Chances are you haven't, Why? Because you need to travel to Western Australia to see one. In the Huff River region (the river is, alas, dry), there is exactly such a thing, called the Huff Lagoon, and it is a spectacular sight. The pink color is caused by minuscule algae that inhabit it and the saline waters reflect their hue. They say that, seen from the air, it is a most remarkable sight. We thought it was just being on its shore.
Our destination, Kalbarri, is a surprisingly pristine and even elegant little town, settled between two sections of Kalbarri National Park. The lower section of the park runs along the ocean's shore and boasts some of the most incredible cliffs to be found anywhere. We walked through its paths taking in the breathtaking views, unaware that we were being burnt to a crisp on account of the wind. Nary a soul in sight, but the sea swallows kept us sufficient company.
North of the town, the park extends inland and offers spectacular views of the river's gorge. Of course the river was dry; this area has not seen real rainfall in months and expects to see none in more months to follow. As expected, being inland, this was the hottest part of our day's activities and hiking through it was most exhausting, but as I said, well worth it.
Back in Kalbarri, the sun began to set, and the temperature became much more bearable. The town is home to many pink cockatoos who fly all over the place, perch themselves on power lines and graze on grassy patches. We did not know this and were quite amused. A family of them resides on the tree right next to our campervan and make a loud but pleasant racket.
While walking to the sea-shore near sunset, we walked by the town's rugby field and we marveled at the site of twenty-eight kangaroos (yes, I counted them), happily grazing on the field's green grass.
We never got to see the sunset, because there was a large hill preventing us from doing so. We were on foot and it would have been too long a walk to clear it. But the light was good along the local beach; people were fishing off the pier, couples strolling and happy shore birds having a good time. More experiences tomorrow as we continue northward toward Sharks Bay.
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